Memory Sticks. The First Story of Paddle 085

Every once in a while when I pass one of the many paddles I have scattered about in my house I have to stop short and stare at it because I am transported back to a specific moment, place or feeling from a trip we have taken together. These memories flood back and serve as a reminder me of how important it is to take the time to slow down and drink in the natural beauty of the land. Our paddles, these objects that propel us and connect us to the wilderness also become touchstones for our past experiences. This may well be the reason that it is now December 1 and, after having it for 4 months, Paddle #085 has not been passed along but is currently hanging on a rack in my living room with my 2 wedding paddles. It's tough to give away a touchstone from such a simple and spontaneous little trip we took with 085 down the Petawawa River in Algonquin Park this October.

This is one of my favourite rivers of all time if only because I have had so many formative moments on it. I paddled it as a little kid with my family many times, spent an unforgettable week on it painting with my Dad, guided trips down it, and honeymooned on it with my husband Reid. Keeping this all in mind it wasn't a big surprise when, with our life just getting too crazy after a summer of too much stress and not enough paddling, Reid said one crisp October morning "we should get away for a few days, it's either go now or wait 6 months". We were on the road the next morning, hoping we had remembered everything but knowing that for a mere 3 day trip there wasn't a lot we couldn't live without. Our worries slowly diminished in importance as our destination approached. A perfect mirror like calm and crisp blue sky greeted us at Lake Traverse and followed us for much of the trip.


We worked out the rust on the first rapid, Big Thompson, and quickly determined that ol' 085 might not be up to the challenges of the low water levels that so frequently accompany late season paddling, so we stored her for the flat water sections later on.


We floated our way downstream, soaking up the sun, dodging rocks and stopping to play when we felt like it. We were in no hurry to go anywhere very fast.


With the sun setting we cautiously eddied out at one of the classic camp sites on the river, Crooked Chute. There is nothing more soothing than listening to the sound of rapids. It lulls me to sleep and wanders in and out of my dreams only to wake me in the morning, its never ending song filling my ears with contentment. The temperature dropped to about -6 that night and although the water in our pots froze we were snug as bugs in our tent.


The next day brought both excitement and outrage. Downstream from Crooked Chute is Rollway rapid. It is always a challenge and not a run to be taken lightly at any water level.  Well known journalist and paddler Blair Fraser had died here in 1968 after apparently missing the take out. We took to the portage with our packs with the plan to scout our run on the way back.  Although we had been forewarned we were still shocked and angered to see that a small memorial cross that had been discreetly erected in Mr. Fraser's memory shortly after his death had been hacked off and disposed of. We later found out that the act of vandalism was perpetrated by a disgruntled traveller who had decided a park was no place for any kind of memorial. Although his opinions may have some validity today I don't think that these views should be retroactively applied 40 years (or 400, or 4000) after the fact. If there is a line to be drawn don't draw it and then step backwards, back over it in a misguided act of righteousness. With our hearts heavy we walked the trail to our canoe while scouting a technical route through the boulder strewn rapid. Our dismay quickly turned to trepidation and then to elation as our boat was tugged into the current and we successfully manoeuvred our way down the 800 m set with out mishap.

The day clouded up during our obligatory lunch stop and hike at the Petawawa cliffs and briefly showered on us as we loaded up and headed down stream. 085 came out of storage and joined us for the rest of the trip as things were plain sailing from here on down. The rain started in earnest as soon as our tent was pitched along Schooner Rapids but it conveniently stopped around 7 am as the sun rose from behind the clouds and mist.


This day was glorious, perfect fall paddling weather. Bright sun, cumulus cloud and stunning fall colours, oh, and a tail wind too! We arrived at the take out deliriously happy rejuvenated and ready to take on the world again!


After a relaxing hike into the Barron Canyon we headed home to our travails and hung up 085, conveniently forgetting to pass it along. I think we will have to take it out for our last paddle of the year (which also inevitably involves some skiing) and then look for a willing partner for it so it can continue on its journey. Until then it still hangs in my living room and remains a memory stick of our 2008 fall trip on the Petawawa.

Becky Mason
Chelsea, Quebec, Canada
www.redcanoes.ca

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Paddle #083 has traveled from coast to coast since it was passed on to me from canoe builder Scott Barkdoll in August.  I worked in Scott's canoe shop last winter and spring and then took off into Labrador to lead a 32-day trip on the Atikonak River for Darrow Camp.  After the trip, back at Darrow's basecamp in West Grand Lake, Maine, Scott and his family visited on their way south from a Newfoundland vacation and passed the paddle on.

Paddle #083 then traveled across the country, not on any river, but on the mightly I-70.  Our final destination was Yosemite Valley where I am working as a field educator for Yosemite Institute.  It took only two months for me to find a wood-canvas canoe in this mountainous, rock-climbing-focused community, so when the rains came and the Merced River rose I was ready with paddle #083 to explore Yosemite Valley from the water.

Paddling beneath Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, and El Capitan was truly amazing.  Late fall came quickly to the Sierras, and the colors were orange and brown rather than brilliant yellow.  The Merced was just barely deep enough to paddle; I look forward to more rain to keep the river running.

Up next: Can paddle #083 make it across the Sierras to Mono Lake?

Many thanks,
Naomi Heindel
El Portal, California

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Paddle Canada 1 & 2 participated in the 2008 David Thompson Bicentennial celebration.  They were part of the 160 modern day voyageurs who paddled from Rocky Mountain House Alberta (departing 10 May) and arriving Fort William (12 July), a total of 3,600 kms.


 


The photos shown Don McMurtry, Gouvernail PC2 displaying Paddle #812;    PC1 under way in the early days of the trip;  PC1 underway from seat 5;  PC2 at Fort Giberalter;  the Brigade preparing to leave Fort Frances.

 
Submitted by Eric Williams
Gouvernail Paddle Canada 1   

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Shortly after the outstanding WCHA  Assembly in Peterborough in July of 2008 I received Paddle # 810 from Rob Stevens. On July 30 I took the paddle to Yellowknife and from August 1 – 14 it travelled the Thelon River.


There were six in our party  Robert Sprachman. Alex Guthro, Pierre Fournier, Tania Martin, John Lutz holding the antler, and Chris McDonald  (see photo – left to right). The photo was taken atop the Thelon Bluffs.




Not all parties on the Thelon had a happy story; the remains of John Hornby's ill fated winter.

 The view of a  PINGO is worth the walk over a bug infested tundra.


Paddle #810, Pierre Fournier (bow) and myself taking a well deserved rest during our journey around the Ursus Islands to the Tamarvi River.


We had a glorious, sunny, warm day but worked hard, #810 was frequently used as a pole as many times we had to push our way through shallow channels.

Our efforts were rewarded as a few days later we witnessed several  Caribou.


The paddle has been left in Yellowknife with Tomiko Robson and Ty Hamilton, avid canoeists themselves.

If you are heading on a northern trip and would like to add to paddle 810's journey to the sea, please contact me and I'll pass you Tomiko and Ty's contact information. Here we see Tomiko and her daughter receiving paddle 810.

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On September 6th 2008 Paddle #082 began a new journey. Not on a trip of great length or over tough portages, but on a journey to a special place known as Lake Obabika in Temagami and to a Native Ceremony called the “Changing of the Seasons”.

Kim Cowan and I arrived on the Saturday before the ceremony and was greeted by Alex Mathias. Alex is a Misabi Elder living on his family's Tribal Territory that surrounds Lake Obabika. It was at his home that he passed the paddle onto me.



It wasn't until after the week end that other paddlers started to arrive. Some decided to head off and find a camp site of their own while others stayed at Alex's place. But as the week went on the beach area at Alex's place began to see more and more tents and canoes along its length.


The Changing of the Seasons Ceremony required a lot of preparation before the day arrived. And the Sweat Lodge preparations were no exception.



Two canoeist pass as they head to and from the Sweat Lodge site

Wood was needed for the Sacred Fire and saplings needed for the building of the Sweat Lodge. Afterwards Grandfather rocks had to be gathered for use in the Sacred Fire and in the Sweat Lodge. Because this was a traditional Sweat Lodge each tree, bough and rock used had to have an offering of tobacco left to give thanks to the Creator before being taken from its place of rest. And each person had to go through what is called a Smudge. A washing of smoke from a small ember of sweet grass, sage and cedar to clear the mind and spirit before helping.





On Friday a Beaver float plane carrying Gord Miller (Environmental Commissioner of Ontario), Amber Ellis (EarthRoots) and Catherine Grant (Forest Ethics) landed just off the beach area. Alex Mathias went out on his boat to greet them and help unload their gear.


After the Ceremony a small communal dinner is shared among the participants. A pot-luck type of dinner where everyone brings something. The menu included moose stew, venison stew, bannock and many other foods. One special treat that was shared was three pumpkin pies that Bob Olajos made the night before in a reflector oven in front of a carefully tended fire. The oven was once used by Camp Keewaydin and the pies were a tasty and special treat.


On the Ceremony Day the canoes began to arrive. Some went ashore near the rocks while others pulled up on the beach site. It was nice seeing so many canoes in such a special place knowing they were all there to share in the ceremony at hand.
 


There were no pictures taken during the Changing of the Seasons Ceremony. It was an event you had to experience in order to have the pictures saved in your memory and heart.

Because it was a smaller group, it was a very moving experience to see everyone involved in the ceremony instead of being passive onlookers.

Everyone shared in the smudge and spoke at least their name during the passing of the feather. Some went further and spoke about their love of Temagami and the need to protect it so their children and grandchildren could experience it. It was a time to share and reflect on the reason we were all there.

It was a day I will not soon forget.

After the ceremony ended, the communal dinner began. The table was packed with food and the next few hours were spent eating and socializing.




On Sunday we managed to get the remaining group together that was at Alex's place for a group shot with the paddle.




It was a terrific week spent with good friends and good people in a place I call special. And I'm sure if Paddle #082 could talk, it would agree.

Dave Gillen
waterwalker.ca

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I was the last to have this paddle, but I suspect Hillbilly has it now. Awesome concept, proud to have been able to be part of it.  In the private/small group practice of wilderness tripping, an online community is proud to serve and connect through such a simple act.
 
We picked the paddle up from the Marchs and headed up to Latchford on Saturday Aug 30.  Launched from Sandy Inlet on Sunday to warm weather and sunny skies.  Here it is with Liz at Wanipitei Chateau just before we head out for a week in Temagami.

The weather was awesome the whole time we had the paddle.  The rest of the trip? Well, that's not the paddle's story. 
 
 
Breakfast on Chee-skon-abikong Lake.  I doubt I was anywhere near as careful with it as Laurie.  Paddles are great for moving canoes, propping up tarps and as cutting boards.  Nice paddle, a good size for rolling tortillas on.

 
It's now at Alex's place on Obabika Lake, passed off to his daughter as he wasn't there. I mentioned that it should get to HeavyK during the Changing Of The Seasons Ceremony held every September on Obabika.  It's an awesome event where people can participate in a First Nation ritual surrounded by old growth forest.

David Sullivan
 

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Paddle #087:
 
It was such a privilege to be asked to start out one of the paddles in the Paddle to the Sea Project that we deliberately chose an historic route -- the Mattawa River -- to baptize the Canada Canoe Museum's terrific little idea. The Mattawa runs from Trout Lake near North Bay some 65 kilometres to Mattawa, on the Upper Ottawa River. It is the original Trans-Canada Highway route and when you travel down it, you are travelling on exactly the same stretches of water that carried Champlain, Brule, Alexander Mackenzie, the great fur traders Radisson and Groseilliers, the voyageurs and the loggers who ran the great white pine from here all the way to Quebec City. The main difference is they didn't have Kevlar canoes, nylon tents and instant-dry clothing. Nor, apparently, were there any speedboats in a couple of the lakes that have cottages and even the odd year-round home.
 
But do not let the sounds of the nearby Highway 17 or the motorboats fool you. This is still the Mattawa. And the portage around Talon Chute remains exactly the same one that Mackenzie said was "the worst" he had encountered, given its relatively short length. The portages are not long, but some are very, very difficult, especially in wet weather. The problem is mostly due to huge rounded boulders that require perfect balance for a canoe carrier.
 
We encountered, sadly, but a single other tripper in the run. He actually fell ass-over-teakettle on the Talon Chute portage but, fortunately, he was using the same ugly and fairly heavy plastic canoes we had rented. They may not be particularly graceful, but they're perfect for a river run that features a great deal of paddling in deep water along with some stretches where the canoe is simply bouncing off the smooth rocks as you head down the swifts and run-able rapids. In high water and during the annual North Bay to Mattawa race, the experts and nutcases will do it in eight hours. We took three days. It was just about ideal and we consider it one of the best trips ever for us. The history gave it a special feeling that you cannot experience until you are actually there and realizing that you are but one paddler in a dozen centuries of native, New France, North West Company and timber wayfarers along the Mattawa.
 
It is a spectacularly beautiful river. And easy, despite the grumblings on a couple of the portages.
 
The paddle was only used in clear deep water -- we used hard plastic and metal paddles for the rough going -- and used almost exclusively by Ellen, sitting in the bow. We went with her sister, Jackie, and her husband, Ralph, who live on Trout Lake. It is the first time for any of us that we paddled from the backyard into the Canadian wilderness, for there are lovely and treasured stretches on the Mattawa where you do feel you are a million miles from anywhere, with nothing around but the river, the high majestic cliffs, the wind in the pines, and the soft gurgling and happy sounds water makes as it is caressed by a good paddle.
 
Thank you for the privilege of taking #087 along on this wonderful ride. I know exactly where the paddle goes next, to a man who has spent his live on the rivers that run into the mighty Ottawa and who knows more stupid songs from teh 1960s than anyone should ever be allowed to shout at the top of his lungs along a portage.
 
 
Roy MacGregor

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Here are a few shots that illustrate the serious action the paddle enjoyed.  For most of our trip Camille Fraser, a 12 year old, from Ottawa, adopted the paddle as hers so the others on the trip did not get much chance to use it although all of us put the paddle in the water over the course of the 11 days.
 
A couple of the photos show the serious action.   The two paddle shot shows the Paddle House on the Nahanni where the Kraus Hotsprings are located and each group that travels down the Nahanni is encouraged to carve and hang a paddle in the building.  Paddle 084# was even hung for a short while among the rafters.
 
I can report the delight of all who were introduced to the paddle's story wanted to be part of it and were excited about the concept you have launched.
 
I am leaving on yet another adventure so will not be able to get caught up with my story obligations.  
 
Just to let you know I have had to bring the paddle back to Toronto with me.   I am still seeking a way of getting it to the ocean. (Arctic, Pacific or Atlantic) so it may be a while before it gets back to the museum.

 Michael Gourley

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On August 19th, 2008 a friend brought us paddle #082. We carefully added it to our paddle bag and headed from Brantford, Ontario to the Magnetawan Access point in Algonquin Provincial Park. Bryan, Tobias (7) and I were camping with our friends, Michael and Samantha and their three children, Owen (6), Lily (5) and Ethan (1). The youngest in our group just celebrated his first birthday so with that in mind we decided to base camp on Little Trout Lake for the weekend.
 
#082 travelled through several little lakes and over a few portages to the lake. Our friend, Michael, did some great things with the boys. Tobias and Owen participated in a controlled capsize and re-entry and then later Michael tethered the canoe so that Tobias and Lily could play around on the water without going too far. It was wonderful to see Tobias paddling in the stern. I also found it difficult — my little boy is growing up fast.
 
Here are some photos of the little couple paddling on Little Trout Lake and Tobias is proudly using paddle #082 for his first time in the stern.



 
Thank you for the opportunity to do this. Paddle #082 makes its way to Hikers Haven in Oakville, ON this Saturday where it will head directly to Temagami to be handed over to another paddler by Alex Mathais at the Changing of the Seasons ceremony.
 
Laurie Ann March
 

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Last year I ended up leaving my spare paddle on a portage put-in while paddling with the family in Ontario's Chiniguichi area. It had something to do with a nuisance bear stalking us and nasty storm heading our way (see previous Lost Paddle post on my blog – Explore-meg.com - for the entire story). But I got the paddle back - that is after the person who found it (owner of Sportsman Lodge) lent it out to paddlers all season. It ended up to be a real cool thing to happen to me though. I eventually got the paddle back, gathered all the stories of where it had been by the people who borrowed it, and then lent it out again to keep the stories going.

That story is what kind of  led to the creation of the Canadian Canoe Museum's National Canoe Day blog "Paddle, Post and Pass it On project.

So what's this note all about? Well, I was handed paddle # 2 (2008) and thought it would be really cool to take that paddle on our family trip this year, take a photo of it on the same portage I left the other one on, and then pass the paddle on to the owner of Sportsman Lodge.

Hope #2 has a great adventure...

 

Kevin Callan



 

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